Gone are the days when Los Angeles was looked down upon as a town of dieters pushing lettuce leaves around on tiny dinner plates. The city is pulsing with chefs who use the city’s impeccably fresh produce to create novel pizzas, vegetarian dishes and incredible breakfast food, all for a reinvented California cuisine.

Jessica Koslow's Sqirl started out as an artisanal toast and jam cafe, but it has since evolved to become possibly the hippest brunch destination in a town packed with hip brunch spots. Devoted fans queue out the door, seeking the sorrel brown rice bowl topped with a runny fried egg, or any of the always-excellent specials. Over-ordering is easy at brunch. There’s housemade sausage, nutty porridge with local milk, and an open-faced toast with kale, tomatillos and hot sauce. Because Koslow got her start with jam, don’t miss the towering, fluffy brioche toast blanketed with fresh ricotta and ultra-local seasonal Sqirl jam. 

Photography courtesy of Sqirl

The word “fusion” has earned a bad reputation over the past few decades, but Koreatown newcomer Here’s Looking At You embraces the genre wholeheartedly. Chef Jonathan Whitener serves a menu inspired by his entire culinary experience, from his cultural roots to his fine-dining background. “My dad is an army brat from Germany; my mom’s Mexican. My dad grew up in the South, but I grew up in south Orange County in the dead center of a Japanese community,” he said. “I adapted all of that into this restaurant. It’s kind of cheesy to say that we’re a multicultural restaurant, but looking at restaurants in Los Angeles, what isn’t? This is just my interpretation of it.” The beef tartare exemplifies Whitener’s style: Beef comes together with chiles, ramps, an egg yolk, turnips, cress and thick-cut charred bread.

Photography by Natalie B. Compton

When it comes to Gjelina, there are two things that people can't stop raving about: how gorgeous the diners are and how great the pizza is. The Abbot Kinney modern-California restaurant has over a dozen pies on its seasonal menu. Ideally, head for the outdoor patio and lounge on metal stools at vintage wood tables packed with shared plates and pies. The crust is crisp and thin, but what people come here for are the toppings, like duck sausage layered upon amber-brown mushrooms with garlic and shallots, Parmesan, and lots and lots of mozzarella. And when the season is right, your pie might have squash blossoms or wild nettles. After all, Gjelina is in Los Angeles, where menus—not the weather—convey the seasons. 

Photo by Clarissa Wei